My Self-Guided Highlander Tour Of Paris: Parte Prima

As many of you already know, I'm a HUGE fan of Highlander. The first movie is in my top 10 of favorite all-time flicks, but the tv show is what I consider the finest production of episodic television EVER! Yes, I know that's a tall accolade, but the show appealed to me on so many levels. And not so much for the cool sword fights and special effects of the Quickenings (although those did, indeed, kick much ass) -- but because of the in-depth look the show took at immortality and it's attendant ups and downs. When the show delved into the pathos of being Immortal, that's when I dug it best. This is also what draws me most to vampire fiction and films.

Anyway, since I knew I was going to be in Paris for 7 days last week, I came with a shopping list of locales used in many of my favorite Highlander: The Series episodes. Included are a slew of images I took while travelling by foot around Paris. Some of them I stumbled on by accident (which was quite the thrill, I must say), while others I came prepared to find (like the area along the Seine where Duncan MacLeod's converted live-in barge was moored). But all should be recognized by die-hard fans of the show like myself and some of my friends reading this blog. It is for you that I dedicate this post.

First off, however, the above shot should really need no introduction to true Highlander fans. I purposely framed this photo within the arch of the tunnel under the Pont Tournelle -- the bridge which crosses over the quai where the barge was moored. This particular angle was used in countless episodes during scene changes, so it should be particularly recognizable. I was going by memory here, so maybe the shot doesn't exactly line up like in the show. And of course, there's no barge in my shot. But still, I think it's damn close. Also, it was around 7:00 in the morning here, and the quai was freaking FREEZING! My hands were in so much pain trying to grip the camera steady for multiple shots until I got just the right one. The things I do for my obsession! :)

And here I am at the actual spot along port de la Tournelle where the barge was moored for most of six seasons. In season 2, the barge was briefly moved to a different location in Paris due to flooding of the quai. I was praying that it would not be flooded this time, and luckily my prayers came true. Just look at that smug smile on my face! This place was literally just a 3 minute walk from my hotel, so of course I visited it almost every day. Wouldn't you?

And here I am standing in The Tunnel -- the same one in which I took the very first picture at the top of this post. The Tunnel was also used in too many episodes to count, so just pick one and VOILA! The second of the two pics I took because of that one episode where Methos is hiding just inside the recess where I'm standing and MacLeod almost mistakes him for an enemy Immortal. Remember? Duncan says: "I am Duncan MacLeod of the clan MacLeod" and Methos replies: "Yes, I know -- " before Mac whips out his blade and nearly takes poor Adam Pierson's head! It was foggier in that scene of course, and at night, but you get the coolness.

This is me standing at the nearby steps from where the barge was moored in the second season. Maurice's little tug boat was tied close to here. If you need a cool episodic reference, check out "Prodigal Son" near the tail end of Season 2. In the scene where the baddie Immortal, Martin Hyde, confronts Maurice about the owner of "that barge." Maurice was coming up the other side of this block when Hyde shouts out "YOU!" -- but this angle was better for my camera.

I came across this shot quite by accident on our first day in Paris. Lisa wanted to take a nap when we got to our hotel, but I was too excited to sleep. So I took a stroll towards the Bastille memorial . . . and gasped aloud when I noticed where I happened to be walking. This is the boulevard Bourdon, which runs along the Port de Plaisance canal. It was used in a long shot of Mac and Fitzcairn arguing heatedly about love, and whether it's wise to keep important secrets from significant others, even if their lives might be put at risk by that knowledge. The episode is "Star-Crossed," and appears halfway through the 3rd season. It's always been one of my favorite scenes, because I love the chemistry between Adrian Paul and Roger Daltrey (of The Who fame) who come across as genuine friends. I didn't know the address for this location, so it was quite fortuitous that I came across it the way that I did. Watching that episode, however, I always had the feeling that it was nearby to where the barge was located. And I was right!

This is the Basilique du Sacre Coeur. It was where Mac first sees a married Tessa in the heartbreaking 2-episode arc, "2 Be/Not 2 Be," in the series finale in the 6th season.

This is, of course, the Eiffel Tower, as seen from the Parc du Champ de Mars. This area was used famously in the season 3 closer titled, appropriately, "Finale: part II." This was where Methos, Amanda, and Joe watched breathlessly from the ground while Mac and Kalas battle it out in the upper levels of the tower.

This is the Obelisk at Place de la Concorde. The location was used when MacLeod chases after and finally catches up to that crazy (but beautiful) Immortal, Nefertiri, in the season 2 episode "Pharaoh's Daughter".

This is me standing in front of the infamous Shakespeare & Co. Well, it's pretty famous to lovers of English literature . . . but also well-known to Highlander fans in particular as the secret Watcher hangout where Adam Pierson worked and conducted his subterfuge. It's insidious, of course, because this is where Kalas tortures and kills an old man to gain knowledge of the whereabouts of the oldest Immortal in existence -- Methos. It was used primarily in the 3rd season episode, "Methos." In this pic, I'm holding some recent purchases. In my right hand is The Long Good-Bye, by Raymond Chandler. And in my left . . . why that's Devil in a Blue Dress, by one Walter Mosley. I bought the last for my best friend, Tarrell, for his birthday. Happy bornday, T! :)

Just around the corner from Shakespeare & Co, and up the street, is the church of St. Julien le Pauvre. But us fans of the show know it as the church where Brother Darius lived and worked. I'm standing in front of the church in the top pic, within a framed shot used a couple of times throughout the second half of the 1st season. The church was not opened our first day in Paris, but was opened 2 days later on a Monday afternoon. The middle pic is an interior shot also used in several episodes. I could not believe my eyes when I stepped through the door and was greeted by such a familiar sight! The last pic is, sadly, where Mac finds Darius's headless body after he is murdered by renegade Watchers in the 1st season finale, "The Hunters".

These last two locations were also used in the 1st season finale, during the scene where Mac tracks down a "Hunter" and begins questioning him in multiple different languages, all the while following him until the two reach the above courtyard. A huge brawl then ensues between Mac and about half a dozen or more Hunters as onlookers from the nearby building gawk and point. Eventually Richie rides in on his motorbike and "rescues" Mac, which is really one of the rare times he can claim to do so, eh?

I stumbled across this site by accident as well, during one of my many walks alone exploring the side-streets of Paris while Lisa took a nap back at our hotel. The arched arcade in the top pic surrounds the Place des Vosges, a plaza created by King Henri IV so that Parisiens would have somewhere to congregate and "chill out" like the Spaniards and Italians did.

I was racking my brain trying to figure out where the infamous courtyard could be in this same area, until I noticed two strollers stepping through an open doorway at the end of the long arcade. You can see them in the background of the top picture. I followed them, stepped through the doorway, and nearly passed out when I saw what I had been searching for. So perfect a moment! This is the picturesque courtyard behind the Hotel de Sully. Look it up if you're ever in the Marais district of Paris.

And so, that's the end of my pictorial tour. Hope you had as much fun reliving your favorite Highlander moments as I had visiting the sites on which they were filmed. The whole experience was so surreal for me, and only heightened the heady feeling that seemed to follow me wherever I went in this beautiful, magic city. Along the way I met many amusing people -- as well as some mild altercations with a group of street thugs or two -- all the while abusing the ears of unsuspecting Parisiens with my pitiful few (but helpful) French phrases.

It was a blast. I highly recommend walking as much as possible when visiting Paris. As I've shown, you never know just what you'll come across around that next corner on any given side-street.

***EDIT: I have since updated with more Highlander filming sites in Paris. To view them, click on this link to get to part two of this tour.

Back From Paris - Some Observations

We had a blast visiting the city of light this past week. I was excited during the days leading up to the trip, but honestly nothing could compare to the sheer amount of awesome it was to actually be in the city when we finally arrived.

Despite my worst fears, the flight out went flawless. Due to buying and confirming our tickets online, we were able to skip the check-in line at JFK and get our boarding passes from the kiosk. And I've never been more impressed by an airline than I am with Air France. Originally we were going to go on American Airlines, who had an identical flight time and price point as Air France. But then the price suddenly sky-rocketed on the day I was going to purchase the tickets, and so I went with AF instead.

And what a difference, I must say! I've been on AA too many times to count at this point, and honestly that airliner has gone downhill. They cut corners on the food, the amenities, and even the quality of their in-flight service. Air France, on the other hand, was aces in all these regards. The food was like a gourmet 5-course meal (no joke), their plane was brand new and state of the art -- each of us had our own tv screen and headphones (for free) with a huge selection of movies, shows, and games to choose from. And the flight attendants were so gracious and helpful -- and all for less than the ticket of the comparative American Airlines. How the hell is that even possible?

The attendants were all bilingual in French and English, though I didn't pass up the opportunity to start putting my limited French to use immediately. It went over well, with the FAs getting quite a kick out of my effort. But the key was that they understood me, at least, and this made me feel a LOT better. By the time we landed at CDG airport, I was definitely more confident in my French ability, despite not knowing more that the most basic of basics. The cabbie was nice and understood me immediately when I asked him in French to take us to the address of our hotel, which I had written down on a piece of paper for him to read. So cool! :)

Anyway, I'm in the process of uploading all my pics and videos. When they're ready, I'll provide the links, so check this blog (or my Facebook page) for updates on that front. In the meantime, rather than detail every single step of this trip (which would be way too tedious to write, not to mention boring to read), I'll leave you with some general observations:

1) The myth of the rude French (or, in this case, the rude Parisien) is just that: a myth. From our waiters down to the cashier at the local market, not once did I experience any rudeness from the local population. Where I think the stereotype comes from is the fact that Parisiens are every bit the city dweller as my fellow New Yorkers. Meaning: they're not so much rude as indifferent. Which is not to say they are not very friendly. When you walk into a shop, you greet the proprietress with a "bon jour, madame" and she replies back with a smile and a "bon jour, monsieur" and then she leaves you alone until you're ready to make a purchase, or if you have any questions about a particular item. This is how it is in NYC. No one bends over backwards or fawns over you. This is not Disney world; it's a living breathing city. No one *has* to cater to your whim here. You get back only as much kindness as you put forth. Except, in Paris, I would say the French were even more gracious than a New Yorker would be if the situation was reversed. Certainly they were very indulgent with me and my horrible attempts at French.

2) The metro system is the way to travel in Paris. We walked roughly 8 - 10 miles a day (no exaggeration -- I measured it on a map), but at the same time we took the metro A LOT to revisit some places we had already seen by foot. And I'm in awe of their system. So much cleaner, smoother, and sensible than NYC's. The signs are easy to read (even though there's no translation), and each platform has a digital schedule board that lets you see how far back your next train is, and how long it will take for it to arrive. Why can't New York be as efficient? The longest ride we had on the metro (which included two transfers) was 35 mins. And this was to get from one end of the city to the complete opposite end. In NYC, this would take 1:30 hours. Of course, NYC is a lot bigger than Paris. Still, the Paris metro gets an A++ in my book. We got very comfortable using it even after just the second day in town. Aside from airport transfers to and fro, we only ever hailed a cabbie once while in the city. The rest of the time we either walked or took "le metro" to get to all the sights. I highly recommend this course of action for all visitors.

3) There is nothing more cooler than walking past Notre Dame at midnight with ABSOLUTELY NO ONE ELSE AROUND! No tourists, no locals, not even a stray dog. Just me and this magnificent cathedral alongside me as I strolled back to the district where we were staying. (I like to take walks by myself in the middle of the night, btw)

4) A little bit of French gets you a long way. Even though a lot more people speak, or at least understand, English than you realize in Paris, I had made it a rule to only speak French as much as I possibly could while there. And the locals were extremely appreciative of this. It's funny seeing the look of first surprise on the waiter's face, followed by obvious appreciation at the effort. I don't know if this translated to a better service for us, though, as I got the impression that our service would have been impeccable and professional regardless. But I'd like to think it helped. The most useful line of dialogue I got by with, which I'd cobbled together from three separate phrases I had learned from my audio CD, was this: "Excusze-moi . . . pouvez-vous m'aider, s'il vous plait? Je ne parle pas tres bien francais. Parlez-vous anglais?" (trans: "Excuse me . . . can you help me, please? I don't speak French very well. Do you speak English?") It's a mouthful, but opened so many avenues of discussion for me whereas a normal inquiry in English would be met with a look of puzzlement, if not downright annoyance, despite the listener fully understanding English.

5) Parisiens hate skyscrapers. Seriously, almost no buildings are taller than 8 or 10 stories in the city. Turns out that a law was passed to prohibit high-rises from being erected within city boundaries so as to preserve Paris's unique vistas and historical ambiance. And amen to that rule! Seriously, Paris is so charming and romantic the way it is. I cannot imagine the travesty that would ensue should this rule ever be reversed. To my knowledge, only la tour Eiffel and Montparnasse Tower (Paris's only and last attempt at a modern skyscraper) are the exceptions to this rule.

6) Certain laws that are staples here in America seem strangely absent in Paris. For one, there does not appear to be a seat belt law. Drivers wear them at whim, or not. All scooter and motorcycle drivers wear helmets, though, but bike cyclists do not. Also, there are no leash laws from what I could see. Dogs are allowed to roam freely down the sidewalks or in the parks. Owners leash them at their own discretion. They also do not curb their dogs, apparently. Lastly, I'm pretty sure their are no prohibitions against talking on your cell phone while driving. To be fair, most drivers seemed to favor hands free sets as a matter of course, anyway, but there were a few who did not.

7) I don't know what the deal is with this, but not one cashier ever handed me my change by hand. All change (whether cash or coin) is immediately placed in a small tray on the counter, requiring the customer to scoop up his own change. Yet, by contrast, all cashiers want you to place the money directly in their hands when you pay them. Strange.

8) The French have a serious, serious love affair with bread. And, honestly, I don't blame them! I was never a big bread eater here in the states. But we had a boulangerie (French word that roughly means bakery) directly across from our hotel, and I would be remiss if I didn't add that I visited this establishment every single morning for breakfast. Sometimes lunch, too. What did I order the most? Croissants and baguettes, of course. But I also discovered the main ingredient of every French breakfast it seems -- pain au chocolat! Seriously people, you have not tasted heaven until you've had a freshly baked chocolate roll. Pain au chocolat was the most popular item being ordered every morning by both locals and tourists alike, and like everything else in a boulangerie, they're baked fresh on the premises. Seriously, I was told it's French law. A boulangerie cannot obtain a license until it is determined that the bread is baked ON THE PREMISES! How f'n awesome is that? And again, why can't New York adopt this law? I've tasted many a croissant here in NYC, and never EVER has one tasted even one-tenth as good as an *average* croissant from an *average* boulangerie in Paris. Someone needs to look into this.

9) Paris is truly a diverse city in every sense of the word. But the greatest indicator of this can be found by studying the high school students who congregate in large groups through the streets and metro once school is out. Whereas here in NYC where integrated schools still have cliques forming neatly down racial lines, in Paris everyone truly seems homogenized. Blacks, whites, asians, and indians all mix freely together in their groups. They all speak the same local dialect (no French form of "ebonics", from what I could discern) and there was no ostracizing of the more "ethnic" classmates even in groups where whites outnumbered them 10 to 1. Again, we have diversity here in NYC, but not like this. Not as frictionless as this, I mean. Try as I might, I could not discern even a hint of racism. And this applies to the entire city, where blacks of means mingle freely with whites of means, all going about their business as equals. I'm doing a terrible job of describing this adequately. You have to see it for yourself.

10) It is not possible to walk down a street in Paris -- any street -- and NOT be surrounded by history. Honestly, Paris is full of so many of the world's best and most diverse museums . . . but the biggest museum is the city itself! My jaw dropped so many times turning the corner of what I assumed would be just an average side street, that I think I developed lock-jaw at one point! One such example: across the bridge from where we stayed, on the right bank in the Marais district, is a little side street I stumbled down on my own called St. Paul's. Turns out this is the main "thoroughfare" of St Paul's village, a charming, mostly cobble-stoned, area lined with dozens of antique shops and tiny restaurants. I felt like I had stepped back in time three centuries! This experience was repeated often throughout our wanderings. I felt so spoiled after just a day of so many awesome and uniquely Parisian experiences such as this.

11) Related to the previous item, nothing at all can prepare you for the culture shock of realizing that you are actually -- for really and truly -- in Paris! When we arrived at our hotel on the Ile St. Louis (a quaint, historic island in the middle of the Seine only a stone's throw from Notre Dame cathedral), our fist reaction was to just collapse on the bed and sleep. But I couldn't! Lisa took a nap, whereas I immediately took to roaming. I went down a tiny side street outside our hotel, turned the corner, and found myself in the middle of the Pont Tournelle -- a bridge with a direct and majestic view of the famous "flying buttresses" of Notre Dame itself. This quickly became my favorite spot in all of Paris, and I would visit it constantly. But on that day, in that first moment, it all struck me at once that I was finally here! I was in Paris. This was what I had been dreaming of for weeks on end. If I was one for weeping foolishly, I would have burst out into tears at that moment. But of course I played it cool and just leaned against the bridge and soaked it all in. I must have stood there for a good 30 minutes, not moving but simply staring. Luckily, I did have the presence of mind to snag a passerby and implore her to take the below picture. And, trust me, while it might not look like it, I'm sure . . . deep down inside I am BEAMING! :)

Rainy Day

Hey everybody!

Despite my promises to the contrary, I'm actually logging in from (another) Internet cafe here in Paris. This time I found one tucked away in a small cobble-stoned street about a stone's throw away from Notre Dame. I love this city -- and this area the most!

Anyway, it's a dreary rainy day today, so a lot of our outdoor plans are in limbo. I'm trying to decide whether to risk the trip up Montparnasse Tower (sp check, please!) to take yet another panoramic video of Paris. I already have one from atop the Eiffel Tower, as well as from the steps of Sacre Coeur perched atop Montmartre. But because of the bad weather, I might have to nix this next trip.

We were going to head down into the catacombs afterwards. We might still do that, although I think it's going to be freezing down there -- and I didn't pack for this kind of chill!

Anyway, just wanted to check in and let everyone know we're still having an awesome time. The food could not be any yummier, nor the people any nicer. Oh, and we've been riding the metro A LOT! I'm like an expert now! It's so awesome, really. Much smoother and cleaner than NYC's subway of course. But also nowhere near as crowded. Even at the height of what passes for morning rush hour here (which begins around 9:00am, as opposed to our 7:00) there is still a few seats available and room to breathe. I can't say I'm quite used to the idea of having to open up the train doors yourself (by hand!), but it's charming in its own way. I have a video that shows what I'm talking about, which I'll post when we get back.

Well, that's all for now. I hope the weather where you are is a lot better than it is here today. While the gloom fits more with my mental pic of Paris anyway, the cold is a real bummer. It makes visiting all the outdoor sites a major drag.

Before I go, a few words of warning for when I get back:

There will be MANY blog entries, covering various aspects of our trip, with a TON of pics and some videos. Those of you on my Facebook list -- be doubly warned! You may be getting the same stuff twice! I'm also planning a special Highlander-themed update of all the exciting sites from the tv series which I got to visit. Words alone cannot explain how awesome this was! You'll see, you'll see. :)

Au revoir!

Heading Out

Well, the time in nigh . . . we are leaving for Paris! I can honestly say I'm not anxious or nervous one bit anymore. I've learned so many basic and wonderful French phrases, as well as researched the hell out of the maps and guidebooks, that I'm now pretty comfortable in my rudimentary knowledge of the city. Oh, and the "street view" function in Google maps was a godsend, too! :)

Anyway, I'm already packed and ready, but Lisa still needs to finish packing her stuff. Nothing new there. I usually never bring souvenirs back from our travels (don't want to use up costly luggage space), but maybe I might break the rule this once and bring back 2 bottles of wine (I think that's the limit, right?)

And perhaps a book or two from Shakespeare & Co.

So, since I doubt I'll be having Internet access while in Paris (and even if I do, I doubt I'll feel like checking in), I hope everyone has a great week! Though not as great as I plan to have. (heh, heh)

I'll be sure to bring back a ton of pics and (maybe) even some videos!

A la prochaine!